About ninety minutes from central Tokyo, Hakone is the easiest way to swap the city for mountains and hot springs. One night is enough to loop through the area by train, cable car, ropeway and boat, then soak in an onsen before dinner.
Getting there: the Romancecar
The Odakyu Romancecar runs from Shinjuku to Hakone-Yumoto without a change. All seats are reserved, so book ahead on weekends. A Hakone pass that bundles the mountain railway, cable car, ropeway and lake boat saves buying separate tickets at every step.
Looping the mountain
From Hakone-Yumoto, the mountain railway climbs slowly through switchbacks, then a cable car and ropeway carry you over Owakudani, a steaming volcanic valley. Try the black eggs boiled in the hot springs there, then ride down to Lake Ashi. The sightseeing boats are built to look like pirate ships, and on a clear day Mount Fuji rises behind the lake.
The night: a ryokan and an onsen
Staying at a ryokan with dinner and breakfast included means you can relax without planning meals. Wash thoroughly before entering the bath, keep your towel out of the water and tie up long hair. Many onsen restrict guests with tattoos; if that applies to you, look for an inn with a private bath you can reserve or a room with its own open-air tub.
Before you go
- Book weekends early: popular inns and Romancecar seats fill up before holidays.
- Travel light: the mountain trains and ropeway get crowded, so send big bags to your inn or leave them in station lockers.
- Check conditions: access to Owakudani is sometimes restricted depending on volcanic activity.